1.Ukukhethwa kweizithako ezimhlophe
✏ Ukukhethwa kwezithako ezibenza babe mhlophe kufanele kuhambisane nezidingo zezindinganiso kazwelonke zokuhlanzeka kwezimonyo, kulandele izimiso zokuphepha nokusebenza kahle, ukuvimbela ukusetshenziswa kwezithako ezingavunyelwe, futhi kugweme ukusetshenziswa kwezinto ezifana ne-mercury, lead, i-arsenic, ne-hydroquinone.
✏ Ocwaningweni nasekuthuthukisweni kwezimonyo ezimhlophe, kuyadingeka ukuthi kucatshangelwe izici ezihlukahlukene zendlela yokwenza mhlophe yokuba mhlophe kwesikhumba, izici ezihlukahlukene ezinethonya, nezindlela ezihlukahlukene zokwakheka kwe-melanin.
✏ Ukusebenzisa isithako esisodwa noma ngaphezulu esimhlophe esinezindlela ezahlukahlukene zokwenza, ezihlanganiswe nezindlela eziningi ezimhlophe, ukwenza imiphumela ehambisanayo kanye nokuxazulula ngempumelelo izinkinga zokushintsha umbala kwesikhumba okubangelwa izici eziningi.
✏ Naka ukuhambisana kwamakhemikhali kwezithako ezikhethiwe zokwenza mhlophe futhi wakhe ukwakheka kwefomula emhlophe ephephile, ezinzile, nesebenzayo.
Izibonelo zezithako zokwenza mhlophe ngezindlela ezihlukene zokuba mhlophe
2.Indlela yokuzivikela kwe-UV:
✏ Gcoba imisebe ye-ultraviolet futhi unciphise umthelela wemisebe ye-ultraviolet kuma-keratinocyte, njenge-methoxycinnamate ethyl hexyl ester, ethylhexyltriazinone, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoate hexyl ester, njll.
✏ Bonisa futhi usakaze imisebe ye-ultraviolet, wehlise umphumela ocasulayo wemisebe ye-ultraviolet ku-epidermis, futhi uvikele isikhumba somuntu, njengokusebenzisa isitsha se-dioxide, i-zinc oxide, njll.
I-intracellular inhibition yama-melanocyte:
✏ Ukuvimbela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase, ukwehlisa ukwakheka kwe-melanin, ukwehlisa inani le-melanin esikhumbeni, nokwenza isikhumba sibe mhlophe, njengei-arbutin,i-raspberry ketone, i-hexylresorcinol,phenethyl resorcinolkanye ne-glycyrrhizin.
✏ Ukwehlisa umzila wokusayina wama-melanocyte abandakanyekayo ekulawuleni isisho se-MITF kanye nokunciphisa ukuvezwa kwe-tyrosinase, njenge-resveratrol, i-curcumin, i-hesperidin, i-paeonol, ne-erythritol
✏ Ukunciphisa i-melanin intermediate; Ukuguqula i-melanin synthesis ibe yi-brown melanin synthesis, isusa ama-radicals angenawo umoya-mpilo, kanye nokunciphisa ukwakheka kwe-melanin, njenge-cysteine, i-glutathione, i-ubiquinone, i-ascorbic acid, i-3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, i-ascorbic acid glucoside, i-ascorbic acid phosphate magnesium nokunye okuphuma ku-VC, kanye nei-vitamin E derivatives
3.Ukuvinjelwa kwe-Extracellular kwama-melanocyte
4.Ukuvinjelwa kokuthuthwa kwe-melanin
5.Anti glycation umphumela
Ukukhetha kwe-matrix
Ifomu lomthamo womkhiqizo liyindlela yokusiza ukwenza mhlophe izithako ezisebenzayo ukufeza ukusebenza kahle kwazo, futhi lingumthwali obalulekile. Ifomu lomthamo linquma i-matrix. Ukwakhiwa kanye ne-matrix kunomthelela obalulekile ekuzinzeni nasekumunceni kwe-transdermal izithako ezimhlophe.
Ukwengeza ngobumpumputhe izithako ezibenza babe mhlophe emikhiqizweni, kuyilapho uziba inhlanganisela yezithako ezenza zibe mhlophe kanye nomthelela wamafomu omthamo ekumunceni kwawo okuguquguqukayo, kungase kungaholeli ekuphepheni okwanelisayo, ukuzinza, nokusebenza ngempumelelo komkhiqizo.
Izinhlobo zemithamo yemikhiqizo emhlophe ikakhulukazi zifaka amafutha okugcoba, ukhilimu, amanzi, ijeli, imaski yobuso, uwoyela wokunakekela isikhumba, njll.
✏ I-cream lotion: Isistimu ngokwayo iqukethe uwoyela ne-emulsifier, nezinye izithako ezikhuthaza ukungena nazo zingangezwa. Ifomula inokuhambisana okukhulu. Ezinye izithako ezimhlophe ezinokuncibilika okuphansi kanye ne-oxidation elula nokushintsha umbala kungasetshenziswa ohlelweni ngokuthuthukisa ifomula. Umuzwa wesikhumba unothile, ongalungisa inhlanganisela kawoyela ne-emulsifier ukuze udale umuzwa wesikhumba esisha noma esiwugqinsi, noma ungangeza ama-ejenti akhuthaza ukungena ukuze akhuthaze ukumuncwa kwe-transdermal kwezithako ezimhlophe.
✏ Ijeli yasemanzini: ngokuvamile ayinawo uwoyela noma amafutha amancane, ifaneleka ukubeka isikhumba esinamafutha, imikhiqizo yasehlobo, amanzi ezimonyo nezinye izidingo zedizayini. Leli fomu lomthamo linemikhawulo ethile, futhi izithako ezimhlophe ezinokuncibilika okuphansi azifanele ukusetshenziswa kufomula yalolu hlobo lwefomu lomthamo. Lapho uklama imikhiqizo, kuyadingeka ukucabangela ukuhambisana kwezithako ezimhlophe nomunye nomunye, nezinye izakhiwo.
✏ Imaski yobuso: Gcoba imaski yobuso engashintshi ngqo endaweni yesikhumba ukuze uthambise i-cuticle, uvimbele ukuhwamuka kwamanzi, futhi usheshise ukungena nokumuncwa kwezithako ezisebenzayo. Kodwa-ke, i-patch ye-mask yobuso inendawo enkulu yokuxhumana nesikhumba, okwenza isikhumba singakwazi ukubekezelelana futhi sinezidingo eziphakeme ngobumnene bomkhiqizo. Ngakho-ke, ezinye izithako ezimhlophe ezinokubekezelelana okuncane azifanele ukwengezwa kufomula yobuso obumhlophe obumhlophe.
✏ Amafutha okunakekelwa kwesikhumba: engeza izithako ezincibilikayo ezimhlophe ezincibilikayo namafutha ukuze wenze uwoyela wokunakekela isikhumba, noma uhlanganise nefomula enamanzi ukuze wenze ukwakheka okubili komthamo ophindwe kabili we-essence yokwenza mhlophe.
Ukukhethwa kwesistimu ye-emulsification
I-Emulsification system iyisithwali esivame ukusetshenziswa kakhulu futhi esisetshenziswa kabanzi kuzimonyo, njengoba singaletha zonke izinhlobo zomsebenzi kanye nezithako. Ama-ejenti amhlophe anezakhiwo ezifana ne-hydrophilicity, i-oleophility, kanye nokushintsha umbala kalula kanye ne-oxidation angasetshenziswa ezinhlelweni ze-emulsion ngobuchwepheshe bokwenza ifomula, inikeze isikhala esikhulu sokufanisa ukusebenza kahle komkhiqizo.
Amasistimu we-emulsification asetshenziswa kakhulu ahlanganisa uhlelo lwamanzi kuwoyela (0/W), uhlelo lukawoyela emanzini (W/0), kanye nesistimu ye-emulsification eminingi (W/0/W, O/W/0).
Ukukhethwa kwezinye izithako ezisizayo
Ukuze kuthuthukiswe umphumela wokumhlophe womkhiqizo, ezinye izinto ezisizayo kufanele futhi zikhethwe, njengamafutha, ama-moisturizers, ama-ejenti athobayo, ama-synergists, njll.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Jun-06-2024