Inkathi Entsha Yezithako Ezimhlophe: Ukuqopha Ikhodi Yesayensi Yesikhumba Esikhanyayo
Endleleni yokuphishekela ukukhanyisa kwesikhumba, ukusungulwa kwezinto ezimhlophe akukaze kume. Ukuvela kwezithako zokwenza mhlophe kusuka kuvithamini C wendabuko kuya ezikhishwe ezitshalweni ezisafufusa kuwumlando wokuthuthuka kwezobuchwepheshe ekuphishekeleni komuntu ubuhle. Lesi sihloko sizocubungula izithako ezidume kakhulu ezimhlophe ezitholakalayo njengamanje, sihlaziye izindlela zazo zokwenza, futhi sibheke phambili ekuthuthukisweni okuzayo.
1, Ukuvela Kwezithako Ezimhlophe
Ukuthuthukiswa kwezithako ezibenza babe mhlophe sekudlule igxathu elisuka kwemvelo kuya kokwenziwa, kwase kuba yi-biotechnology. Amalungiselelo okuqala e-mercury aqedwa ngenxa yobuthi, futhi ukusetshenziswa kwe-hydroquinone kwavinjelwa ngenxa yezingozi ezingaba khona. Ngawo-1990, uvithamini C kanye nokuphuma kwawo kwangenisa inkathi entsha yokuba mhlophe. Ngekhulu lama-21, i-arbutin, i-niacinamide isothermal kanye nezingxenye ezisebenzayo seziyinsakavukela. Eminyakeni yakamuva, okukhishwe kwe-biotechnology kanye nezithako ezintsha zokwenziwa zihola umjikelezo omusha wokuguqula ubumhlophe.
Izithako ezijwayelekile ezimhlophe emakethe yamanje zifaka okuphuma kuvithamini C, i-niacinamide, i-arbutin, i-tranexamic acid, njll. Lezi zithako zithola imiphumela emhlophe ngokusebenzisa izindlela ezahlukahlukene zokwenza, ezinjengokuvimbela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase, ukuvimbela ukudluliselwa kwe-melanin, nokusheshisa umzimba we-melanin.
Izintandokazi zabathengi zezithako ezimhlophe zibonisa ithrendi ehlukahlukene. Imakethe yase-Asia ikhetha izithako zezitshalo ezithambile ezifana ne-arbutin ne-licorice extract; Izimakethe zaseYurophu nezaseMelika zithanda izithako ezisebenzayo ezisebenza kahle, ezifana nokuphuma kuvithamini C kanye ne-niacinamide. Ukuphepha, ukusebenza kahle, nokuzinza yizici ezintathu ezibalulekile ukuze abathengi bakhethe imikhiqizo emhlophe.
2, Ukuhlaziywa Kwezithako Eziyisihlanu Zokumhlophe Ezidumile
I-Vitamin C kanye nokuphuma kwayo yizihlahla ezihlala ziluhlaza embonini yokwenza mhlophe. I-L-vitamin C iyindlela ephumelela kakhulu, kodwa ukuzinza kwayo kubi. Izinto eziphuma kuzo ezifana ne-vitamin C glucoside kanye ne-vitamin C phosphate magnesium zithuthukisa ukuzinza futhi zimuncwa kalula esikhumbeni. Ucwaningo lwezokwelapha lubonise ukuthi ukusebenzisa imikhiqizo equkethe u-10% wevithamini C emavikini angu-12 kungakhuphula ukukhanya kwesikhumba ngo-30% futhi kunciphise umbala ngo-40%.
I-Niacinamide(i-vitamin B3) iyisithako esifunwa kakhulu ngemuva kwemisebenzi eminingi eminyakeni yamuva. Ngaphezu kokwenza mhlophe, iphinde ibe ne-moisturizing, anti-aging, kanye nemisebenzi yokuthuthukisa izithiyo zesikhumba. Indlela eyinhloko yokwenza mhlophe ukuvimbela ukudluliselwa kwe-melanin kuma-keratinocyte. Ucwaningo selukhombisile ukuthi ukusebenzisa imikhiqizo equkethe u-5% we-niacinamide amasonto ayi-8 kuthuthukisa kakhulu ukugqama kwesikhumba.
Njengommeleli wezithako ezimhlophe zemvelo,i-arbutinyaziwa ngezakhiwo zayo ezithambile neziphephile. Yehlisa ukukhiqizwa kwe-melanin ngokuvimbela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase. Uma iqhathaniswa ne-hydroquinone, i-arbutin ayikubangeli ukucasuka kwesikhumba noma ubumnyama. Idatha yomtholampilo ibonisa ukuthi ngemva kwamasonto angu-12 okusebenzisa imikhiqizo equkethe i-arbutin engu-2%, indawo ephakathi nendawo ye-pigmentation yehle ngo-45%.
I-Tranexamic acid (i-coagulation acid) yaqale yasetshenziswa emkhakheni wezokwelapha futhi kamuva kwatholakala ukuthi inemiphumela emhlophe. Yehlisa ukukhiqizwa kwe-melanin ngokuvimbela ukwakheka kwe-prostaglandin. Ifaneleka kakhulu ukwelapha i-melasma, ngezinga elisebenzayo lomtholampilo elingafika ku-80%. Ukusetshenziswa okuhlangene novithamini C kungaveza umphumela we-synergistic.
Izinto ezintsha ezimhlophe ze-biotechnology ezifana ne-licorice extract kanyei-resveratrolzimelela isiqondiso esizayo sobuchwepheshe bokumhlophe. Lezi zithako azigcini nje ngokuba nemiphumela emhlophe emhlophe, kodwa futhi zinemiphumela eminingi efana ne-antioxidant ne-anti-inflammatory. Isibonelo, umphumela wokuba mhlophe wokukhishwa kwe-licorice kusuka e-Guangguo uphindwe izikhathi ezingu-5 kune-arbutin, futhi ufudumele futhi uphephile.
3. Amathemba esikhathi esizayo wezithako ezimhlophe
Ucwaningo nokuthuthukiswa kwezithako ezimhlophe kuya ekunembeni kanye nokwenza kube ngokwakho. Ukusetshenziswa kobuchwepheshe bokuhlola izakhi zofuzo kwenza izixazululo zokwenziwa zibe mhlophe zibe mhlophe. Ngokuhlaziya izakhi zofuzo eziphathelene ne-melanin metabolism, izinhlelo ezihlosiwe zokucwenga zingathuthukiswa ukuze kuthuthukiswe ukusebenza kahle kokwelashwa.
Ikhemikhali eluhlaza kanye nezinto zokusetshenziswa ezisimeme ziyizitayela ezibalulekile zentuthuko yesikhathi esizayo. Ukusebenzisa i-biotechnology ukuze kukhishwe izithako ezisebenza mhlophe ezitshalweni nakuma-microorganisms akuwona nje kuphela ukuthi kunobungani bemvelo futhi kuyasimama, kodwa futhi kunikeza izinto zokusetshenziswa eziphephile nezisebenza ngempumelelo. Isibonelo, i-resveratrol ekhiqizwa kusetshenziswa amasu e-synthetic biology inokuhlanzeka okuphezulu nokusebenza kangcono.
Inhlanganisela yezithako ezimhlophe nezinye izithako ezisebenzayo kuyisihluthulelo sokuqanjwa kabusha komkhiqizo. Ukuthuthukiswa kwemisebenzi eyinhlanganisela efana nokwenza mhlophe nokunqanda ukuguga, ukwenza mhlophe kanye nokulungisa kungahlangabezana nesidingo sabathengi semikhiqizo esebenza ngokuningi yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba. Ucwaningo luye lwabonisa ukuthi inhlanganisela ye-vitamin C, i-vitamin E, ne-ferulic acid ingathuthukisa kakhulu imiphumela ye-antioxidant nemhlophe.
Umlando wokuthuthukiswa kwezithako ezimhlophe ungumlando oqanjwe kabusha ohlala uphishekela ukuphepha nokusebenza ngempumelelo. Kusukela ezithakweni ezilula zokuqala kuye kumafomula anamuhla ayinkimbinkimbi, kusukela ekucwebeni okukodwa kuya ekunakekelweni kwesikhumba okusebenzayo okuhlukahlukene, ubuchwepheshe bokwenza mhlophe benza izinto ezintsha ezingakaze zibonwe. Ngokuzayo, ngokusetshenziswa kobuchwepheshe obusezingeni eliphezulu njenge-biotechnology ne-nanotechnology, izithako ezimhlophe zizoletha intuthuko ehlakaniphe nakakhulu. Lapho bekhetha imikhiqizo yokwenza mhlophe, abathengi kufanele banake izithako zesayensi, eziphephile, nezisebenzayo, futhi babhekane nezidingo zokumhlophe ngokunengqondo. Ngenkathi bephishekela ubuhle, kufanele futhi banake impilo yesikhumba.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Mar-03-2025
