I-Vitamin C emikhiqizweni ye-skincare: kungani idume kangaka?

1, Izinzuzo zobuhle zikavithamini C:
1) I-Antioxidant
Lapho isikhumba sishukunyiswa ukukhanya kwelanga (imisebe ye-ultraviolet) noma ukungcola kwemvelo, inani elikhulu lama-radicals mahhala liyakhiqizwa. Isikhumba sincike ohlelweni oluyinkimbinkimbi lwe-enzyme kanye nama-non-enzyme ama-antioxidant ukuze zizivikele ekulimaleni kwama-radical mahhala.
I-VC iyi-antioxidant eningi kakhulu esikhumbeni somuntu, isebenzisa imvelo yayo e-oxidizable kakhulu ukuze ithathele ezinye izinto futhi ivikeleke ekufakweni kwe-oxidation. Ngamanye amazwi, i-VC iyazidela ukuze inciphise futhi isuse ama-radicals mahhala, ngaleyo ndlela ivikele isikhumba.

2) Vimbela ukukhiqizwa kwe-melanin
I-VC kanye nokuphuma kwayo kungaphazamisa i-tyrosinase, kunciphise izinga lokuguqulwa kwe-tyrosinase, futhi kunciphise ukukhiqizwa kwe-melanin. Ngaphezu kokuvimbela i-tyrosinase, i-VC ingaphinda isebenze njenge-ejenti yokunciphisa i-melanin kanye nomkhiqizo omaphakathi we-melanin synthesis, i-dopaquinone, inciphisa emnyama ibe mnyama futhi izuze imiphumela emhlophe. I-Vitamin C iyi-ejenti ephephile futhi ephumelelayo yokwenza isikhumba sibe mhlophe.

3) I-sunscreen yesikhumba

I-VC ibamba iqhaza ekuhlanganiseni i-collagen ne-mucopolysaccharides, ikhuthaza ukuphulukiswa kwesilonda, ivimbele ukushiswa yilanga, futhi igweme ukulandelana okushiywe ukukhanya kwelanga okwedlulele. Ngesikhathi esifanayo, uvithamini C unezici ezinhle kakhulu zokulwa ne-antioxidant futhi ungabamba futhi unciphise ama-radicals mahhala esikhumbeni, uvimbele ukulimala emisebeni ye-ultraviolet. Ngakho-ke, i-vitamin C ibizwa ngokuthi "i-intradermal sunscreen". Nakuba ingakwazi ukumunca noma ukuvimba imisebe ye-ultraviolet, ingaveza umphumela wokuvikela emonakalweni we-ultraviolet edermis. Umphumela wokuvikela ilanga wokwengeza i-VC usekelwe ngokwesayensi~

4) Thuthukisa ukwakheka kwe-collagen

Ukulahlekelwa kwe-collagen ne-elastin kungabangela isikhumba sethu ukuba sinciphise futhi sihlangabezane nezimo zokuguga njengemigqa emihle.

Umehluko omkhulu phakathi kwe-collagen namaprotheni avamile ukuthi iqukethe i-hydroxyproline ne-hydroxylysine. Ukuhlanganiswa kwalawa ma-amino acid amabili kudinga ukubandakanyeka kukavithamini C.
I-hydroxylation ye-proline ngesikhathi sokuhlanganiswa kwe-collagen idinga ukubamba iqhaza kwevithamini C, ngakho-ke ukuntula kwe-vitamin C kuvimbela ukuhlanganiswa okuvamile kwe-collagen, okuholela ekuphazamisekeni kokuxhumana kwamaselula.

I-5) Ukulungisa izithiyo ezilimele ukukhuthaza ukuphulukiswa kwesilonda

I-Vitamin C ingakhuthaza ukuhlukaniswa kwama-keratinocyte, ivuselele umsebenzi we-epidermal barrier, futhi isize ukwakha kabusha ungqimba lwe-epidermal. Ngakho i-vitamin C inomphumela omuhle kakhulu esikhumbeni sesikhumba.

Yingakho futhi enye yezimpawu zokuntula lesi sakhamzimba ukungapholi kahle kwesilonda.

6) Anti-inflammatory

I-Vitamin C futhi inemiphumela emihle kakhulu ye-antibacterial kanye ne-anti-inflammatory, enganciphisa umsebenzi we-transcription factor yama-cytokines ahlukahlukene avuthayo. Ngakho-ke, i-vitamin C ivame ukusetshenziswa ngabadermatologists ukwelapha izifo zesikhumba ezivuthayo ezifana nezinduna.

2, Yiziphi izinhlobo ezahlukene zevithamini C?
Ivithamini C emsulwa ibizwa nge-L-ascorbic acid (L-AA). Lolu uhlobo lwevithamini C olusebenza kakhulu futhi olucwaningwe kakhulu. Kodwa-ke, leli fomu likhipha oksijini ngokushesha futhi lingasebenzi ngaphansi kwezimo zomoya, ukushisa, ukukhanya, noma i-pH eyeqisayo. Ososayensi bazinza i-L-AA ngokuyihlanganisa novithamini E kanye ne-ferulic acid ukuze isetshenziswe ezimonyoni. Maningi amanye amafomula kavithamini C, okuhlanganisa i-3-0 ethyl ascorbic acid, i-ascorbate glucoside, i-magnesium ne-sodium ascorbate phosphate, i-tetrahexyl decanol ascorbate, i-ascorbate tetraisopropylpalmitate, ne-ascorbate palmitate. Lezi zinto eziphuma kuzo aziyona i-vitamin C emsulwa, kodwa zishintshiwe ukuze kuthuthukiswe ukuzinza nokubekezelelana kwama-molecule e-ascorbic acid. Mayelana nokusebenza ngempumelelo, amaningi alawa mafomula anedatha engqubuzanayo noma adinga ucwaningo olwengeziwe ukuze aqinisekise ukusebenza kwawo. I-L-ascorbic acid, i-tetrahexyl decanol ascorbate, ne-ascorbate tetraisopalmitate ezinziswe ngovithamini E kanye ne-ferulic acid inedatha eminingi esekela ukusetshenziswa kwazo.